I suggest you hit the boost button especially after it rains! You may have to hit the boost button two or three times in a row. What I mean is put it on boost let it run it's boost cycle. Take a reading, if you still do not have an accurate chlorine reading, hit the boost button again. Do it two, three, four times take chlorine reading after each cycle until you get a good chlorine reading. Our machine failed at the beginning of this season, but we did not know it and we went a week and a half without knowing it. When we finally figured out the machine was not working properly, (Intex did replace the machine for free). It took four boost cycles before we had clear water again. Our water had turned a cloudy green. We did not have to add salt though. You may also want to call Intex for their help--Customer Service was awesome and that was right after Memorial Day 2011 and they guideed us through our problem.
answered 2 years, 11 months ago
You probably need to descale the elements.
Disconnect the power and water hoses. screw the end cap on the bottom of the unit and stand upright. fill with kitchen grade white vinegar and allow the descaling process to run for a few hours.
you should probably run the sysem for longer daily.
answered 3 years, 10 months ago
IF the system reads low or high salt levels it doesnt cut on or produce and chlorine. It doesnt actually turn on so the cell doesnt get damaged. If this happened after a rain, you may need to get in the pool and stir up the salt.
answered 3 years, 11 months ago
- Bay City, Texas
take a sample of your water to a pool store they will tell you exactly what chemicals you need also how many hours do you run your filter and salt unit a day make sure you run them equal times together....it sounds like your PH level is out of wack...
answered 3 years, 11 months ago
- Lake Havasu City, Arizona
Hmmm...have your chlorine level checked at the local pool store. Some stores can check for salt leve(sorta).
Keep in mind that a salt pool is a chlorine pool...you just make your own and without the nasty chemicals that have to be added to store bought chlorine to keep it from evaporating in a day.
get a quart of vinegar...remove the unit stand it on end with cap on opposite of flow switch so the copper and plates are submerged(in vinegar) and let it sit an hour then flush...chances are that something got on the sensor.
I run 2 units last years unit and this years (which is clear and has copper block). Some people unplug copper wire if copper levels get too high. Last years unit has not needed cleaned this season and this years model has needed cleaning...go figure
Last years model(not clear and no copper block) actually puts out twice the amount of clorine. But the copper block technology only requires half the chlorine level...but I run it high anyway.
If the unit trips on low salt it shuts off so no chlorine production...you can always buy a bag of shock and do you shock chemically.
I tend to run the lower band of salt 2700 and keep the chlorine around 4. Normal bands are 2700-3300 and 2 to 4.
its easier to add salt later than to have to remove water and dilute to remove salt...so just don't add salt.
The last thing to keep in mind is how many chemicals are in your water now...last year I had put probably 40lb of chemicals in the pool and I think the amout of total dissolved solids was probably pretty high so this year I drained the pool and started fresh. I figure that a pool filling is about $50 from the water company and added salt again. So that means the only thing in my pool is water and salt...and a minimum amount of stabilizer.
I used pool store salt which is about $8 for 40lb but my buddie used water softner salt and it took a day to dissolve but only $4 for 40lb. He just snipped the tops of the bags and set them in the pool till they dissolved.
I also use this clarifier which is actually an enzime its called pool magic and a capful a week seems to do the trick.
My experience has been....
green or cloudy=not enough chlorine
answered 4 years ago
- Painesville, Ohio